There’s a distinct atmosphere of something softer and more romantically English country house–like around Christopher Bailey
’s Pre-Fall Burberry
collection. It’s not that he’s plunged completely into a vintage narrative, but there’s a feel of a thirties aristocratic house party in the long, slim, langorous crêpe evening dresses
with their puffed sleeves, the smart tailored coats with fitted, seamed waists, the corduroy jackets and narrow skirts with peplumed pockets, the muted colors and vaguely chintzy chrysanthemum prints. Agreed, the narrow flares, military bomber jackets, and sweaters with an owl cartoon on the front are hardly “period” dress—these are the expected continuations of Burberry’s young, contemporary pieces. All of this adds up to a Burberry proposition which feels nicely at ease with itself this season—simultaneously at home with that hint of nostalgic Britishness
and the sharp technical modernity Bailey brings to the brand. What’s really clever is the way those two strands fuse in the fabric and cut of this collection’s outerwear. Here, Bailey updates salt-and-pepper tweed and twill (lovely to look at in their traditional form, but too bulky and scratchy to wear these days) in coat shapes in soft, lightened-up material that can be close-cut into seamed torsos and narrow sleeves, and then gives a springy volume to a belled skirt below. The effect? Feminine
and vaguely princess-like, but lithe and unforced. Hard not to imagine this isn’t a direct appeal to a certain new member of the British royal family. Those coats look just like something the Duchess of Cambridge
will want for all those outdoor public engagements she’ll be attending in 2012. (Vogue)
Ok, this time I didn’t write a revue myself, but I completely agree with what is written above. By the way, I found the Pre Fall collection charming, extremely appealing and nearly perfect. I was also wondering how this “nostalgic Britishness” keeps on appearing in its full elegance and romantic aristocracy. Like the tv series Downton Alley for example…I’m completely addicted to it, not only for the plot, the dreamlike castle and the outstanding acting, but also the clothes….will be interesting to see what we’ll wear in a year or two if we keep in going in this direction, after all, we have already seen a few corsets back on the catwalks!!!