Well, I’ve never been a great fan of Stefano Pilati, the designer who has created the Yves Saint Laurent collections for the last 10 years and has just been replaced by Hedi Slimane. Don’t get me wrong, I think sometimes he did a good job, but sometimes his creations were not that good, while I’ve always considered Yves a real genius. I liked the last show Pilati did, concentrating on chainmail dresses (a must for next season), narrow silhouettes, short jackets and a lot of leather. Pilati’s departure was announced in a cold polite notice from YSL headquarters, thanking him for being “instrumental in the rebuilding and repositioning of an iconic French luxury brand. Under Stefano’s guiding vision and artistic direction, the house has become a contemporary reference in high fashion”. Stefano Pilati is well liked and respected in the fashion industry, but his work for the house of Yves Saint Laurent, while by no means a disaster, is likely to be remembered as non-exceptional. Recently Pierre Bergé, who lived with Yves Saint Laurent for almost 50 years and loved both him and his work through triumphs and dark moments, told T magazine Hedi Slimane is up for the task and ready to recreate the magic. While I still need to see what will happen next season before sharing Berge’s optimistic view, I thought a little magic worked also in the latest fall winter collection, so here are some catwalk pics while we wait for the next chapter of the Saint Laurent saga (and a couple of pictures with legendary actress and Yves’ personal muse Catherine Deneuve). Let’s face it, Yves dealt with everything, from the masculine to the extremely sexy, from rigor to frivolity; he was a visionary, deeply troubled in his life and venerated in his work. Good luck to Stefano Pilati for whatever adventure he’s going to embark on, and to Hedi Slimane for the huge shoes he has to fill.
Past, present and future of Yves Saint Laurent
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